Kebabs, Aromatic Biryani and a World More: Indian City Gains Recognition on UNESCO's Creative Cities List.
Mouth-watering kebabs, aromatic biryani, and fluffy, cloud-like desserts.
The historic city in northern India of Lucknow has forever been a haven for gastronomes, with residents and tourists equally celebrating its exquisite cuisine.
A Global Honor
Last month, Unesco honored it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network β adding it to a select list of global cities and sparking hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's exceptional food. With this designation, it enters a international community of over 400 metropolises across over 100 countries focused on promoting "artistic expression as a catalyst of development that sustains urban life".
The recognition "stands as proof of its deep-rooted gastronomic legacy and vibrant food ecosystem," according to a representative from Unesco's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city β after Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 β to find a place in this coveted list of 70 global destinations internationally.
A City Defined by Food
The honor for this time-honored city arrives as hardly a shock to its residents or dedicated food lovers. Many agree with the view that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO designation, this beloved, bustling, and eclectic city β the capital of India's largest state β is now in the spotlight for what has perennially characterized its essence: an unparalleled love for food.
"'What's for dinner, how should it be prepared' is a ongoing conversation from waking up until going to bed in many homes," states a local cultural expert. "And you are often assessed by the excellence of food that emerges from your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The City of Nawabs β as it's widely known after its 18th and 19th-century affluent Muslim rulers β is noted for its tender kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were conceived, evolved, and raised to extraordinary levels in their opulent kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were centers of culinary innovations, blending Iranian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the culinary tradition of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were created. Legend has it that the galouti kebab was devised to feed an ageing nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His cooks processed the meat with papaya, saffron, and a blend of spices and made it so soft that it required no chewing.
But perhaps the greatest contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a low, leisurely heat, with the pot's lid tightly closed with a flour paste.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
In addition to the well-known kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also developed a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryani β the region is also a haven for vegetarians.
The local Baniya community's cuisine doesn't just celebrates seasonal produce but also provides the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat β zesty fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Nearly on countless corners, there are little shops and carts β hidden treasures that are extremely popular with the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, throngs of people start gathering from early morning at a famous tea stall to get a piping hot cup of milky masala chai, presented in earthenware cups, along with pillowy soft buns covered in hand-churned white butter.
To start the day, one can head to a unpretentious joint located in the old city area of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was set up, the place is still in great demand for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also boasts unique treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a frothy dessert savored in the winter. The technique of making it is precise and complicated. The artisan beats the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its unique frothy texture.
On cold mornings, street vendors line up in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Many though express concern that their younger generation do not want to learn the craft.
A celebrity chef from Lucknow has noted that the city's immense food legacy places it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The real value from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will be realized only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its under-the-radar eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative β shaped by generational food businesses, from modest street carts to lively restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The global recognition, it is hoped, will inspire more people around the world to explore these narratives and visit the city to taste the food wonders of Lucknow.