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When curating a ranking of London’s finest eateries, one might foresee well-known Michelin-starred establishments. However, situated prominently among these culinary giants is a modest salonu situated in a far-flung part of north London.

An Shocking Recognition

This little Turkish eatery, focusing in the culinary delights of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been crowned the fourth finest restaurant in the city by a influential food magazine. This honour has left the proprietors completely astonished.

“I am utterly astonished,” says a family member, pointing to his family’s hard graft that resulted in their small shop earning such a prominent ranking on a notable 99-strong list.

A Appeal of Simplicity

This little venue, which started as a simple cafe before its conversion into a buzzing food hotspot, has retained much of its earlier feel. It fits just more than 20 people and, except for the impressive live cooking performance, the setup remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate spot,” notes the owner.

The Star Dish: Tantuni

In the end, it’s focused on the fare, and this establishment certainly delivers. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated joy. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to keep a moist, juicy texture.

The meat is then tossed into a large pan with seasonings and oil, which are mixed in bit by bit. When the flavourful mixture heats through, homemade lavaş—a soft bread—is placed on top to take in all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley are placed before the tasty meat is wrapped securely inside.

It is often consumed with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a strong punch of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, sharp onions and rich, paprika-red oil tying it all together.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A leading food critic labelled this dish “a part of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to sweets, the restaurant’s künefe proves a treat. It is coated in lighter syrup than usual, resulting in it a richer, nuttier and less sickly profile.

Outranking the Giants

Remarkably, this unassuming spot has been placed higher than several renowned three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself close to the summit of the list, following other high-profile dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave the restaurant satisfied for less than £25, equivalent tasting menus at top-tier establishments can run into significantly more than that amount.

A Philosophy of Heart

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants included and is situated well outside the city’s central zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an expensive city. It is expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the best service and best food but I don’t subscribe to that,” states the owner.

“I feel what is paramount is friendliness, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

This view is supported by the list’s editor, who stated that if he was in a role of power, he would “require to have every chef in London come to this spot as a masterclass, to show them the dangers of excess, and to show what is attainable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their utmost best”.

A Path of Dedication

In contrast to many chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food didn’t work at fancy restaurants. “I feel really pleased of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.

Numerous restaurants need years to find their footing, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its popularity is thanks to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“My mum would be really tired. She would source produce in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Each item is prepared manually; she would do all of this. She is a solo parent and she managed a personal life but her friends would visit to help her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. Each of these roles forged her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he says.

A Recognition for the People

This restaurant’s accolade is bound to have meaning beyond its own walls. “I believe numerous people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” says the owner, pointing out the wider meaning of this culinary triumph.